Friday, August 11, 2006

A RIDE ON THE ORIENT EXPRESS-YOURSELF



I haven't been blogging lately because I've been entertaining. First the McDaniel duo, then Boy Wonder.

This is that magical time of year, between semesters, when I have only one job, when I can really enjoy my time off, when a day stretches out before me rife with fun possibilities instead of dull obligations.

Five and a half days of eating and talking and lying around and going out and watching movies and doing whatever. Exactly what I needed.

One of the things Boy George and I did, besides smoke cigars and learn Spanish and revisit my hometown (where everything and nothing had changed in 15 years), was make sushi.

Boy got me hooked on sushi. I had eaten it only a couple of times before. Once in college, when my roommate’s boyfriend, a half-Korean Army brat, in a fit of nostalgia, rolled up some plain rice in a sheet of seaweed. It was nothing special. It reminded me of my own desperate attempts, in France, to cure a bout of homesickness by improvising something peculiarly American, like ketchup. The result — a bowl of tomato paste and vinegar — usually just intensified the longing.

The second time I ate sushi was at a restaurant in Tulsa’s Brookside area. I went with some co-workers. I didn’t know what to order. Fearing the fish, I stuck with the vegetarian menu. The thing I remember most about it was that it was very expensive and I felt extremely awkward using chopsticks. One co-worker spent $30 on lunch.

Either the sushi there was unremarkable or its time hadn’t come for me, but I simply didn’t see what all the fuss was about.

Then came George. And his Grand Passion. And a local sushi bar.

There is nothing so contagious as a grand passion, especially one for food.

The first time I ate sushi with George was a revelation. I kept thinking about that poem in Edgar Lee Masters’ “Spoon River Anthology” about the guy — I think it was a priest — who brought back some sand from Egypt to the folks in his small town.

You were like a traveler who brings a little box of sand
from the wastes about the pyramids
And makes them real and Egypt real


Eating sushi with George was like that — like something had been made real.

George’s mom is Vietnamese, and he spent a good deal of his formative years in the Orient. I think Orient is not politically correct anymore, but it’s such a damn romantic word I can’t help using it. It makes me think of Great Walls and Spice Roads and silk clothes and ancient codes of etiquette.

George has made this real for me by demystifying it — by making me also think of South Korean youth gangs, punk fashion, seedy military complexes, state-of-the-art gadgetry and animated porn.

He also suggested that we make our own sushi — can we mere, mostly Caucasian mortals do such a thing? — and he showed up at my house with a book about sushi, a rice maker from Japan (a gadget, not a person), a sushi tray with chopsticks and some seaweed and rice vinegar. The rest we bought at the Asian Mart and Hy-Vee.

Then, with a nod to 2,500 years of Japanese artistry, we rolled our own.

We gathered and chopped all the ingredients, below, an assortment of salmon and tuna and shrimp, plus a few veggies, some mango and a squeeze-tube of wasabi:



Then we tried to figure out how to arrange them on the seaweed so that they looked pretty and would roll up nicely. Being journalists, not mathematicians, we needed some extra help with this, so we read in the book about where to place things and how to leave an inch of seaweed uncovered at the end so the roll could be sealed.



Then Georgey-san figured out, with just a tiny bit of trial and error, how to use the sushi mat to roll up the damn thing. We thought our rolls could be tighter and prettier — what couldn’t be at my age? — but we were basically pleased with our first effort. Sushi chefs, after all, train for years and years, and they are all men, so any deficiencies in our rolls were mostly attributable to my being a woman. Wouldn’t you agree, Boy Sensei?

So here’s what our rolls looked like uncut:




Even though I'm a girl, I got the honor of slicing them into beautiful, bite-size morsels. Unfortunately, my kitchen is not equipped with a razor-sharp blade — Explain to me, someone, why I spent $3,000 on the countertops but am too cheap to pony up $150 for a nice knife — so I ended up using a bread knife to do the honors. You can see the result at the top of this page.

Sushi, our book said, was the world’s first fast food. And Boy and I, ever mindful of tradition, gobbled up this meal as fast as we could.

23 Comments:

At 2:20 PM, Blogger Ben said...

That is truly impressive. I can't imagine trying that, although I can imagine the disasterous results.

The pictures are beautiful. Before reading the post, I kept looking at the first picture and thinking, "Is that at her house? Did she pull her camera out at a restaurant? Or did they deliver it and she laid it out nicely?" Hard to believe.

 
At 2:32 PM, Blogger kc said...

Thanks, Benjie!

Actually, I had a hard time taking photos because the flash was making bad reflections and there wasn't enough natural light to hand-hold the camera and shoot manually. So everything's a little out of focus! But you get the idea.

You would make great sushi, being a boy. This book of ours makes me sad, George, because there's a section in it where the author, a woman, talks about how she wanted to train as a sushi chef but couldn't because she's a woman.

 
At 3:16 PM, Blogger Erin said...

Wow, I'm impressed too! Was it super delicious? Was it worth the effort?

I think I would love to make sushi. There's a whole arts-and-crafts aspect to it that I would enjoy. I bet I'd be good at it too, even without a johnson.

 
At 3:37 PM, Blogger kc said...

I would say it was super delicious, yes! The two of us ate every single bite. And we had leftover ingredients, which we planned to use the next night, but, alas, we ate so much on Monday that by Tuesday we were all sushi'd out, and we ended up eating Mexican food instead.

We did discuss some plans for improvement, like adding roe and sesame seed, and possibly trying a different kind of vinegar, which, from reading, is really the key ingredient in sushi. It's sort of like the chef's signature, as George put it. I read in this book that it's OK at a sushi bar to ask for a sample of the chef's vinegar so you can taste it without the other flavors influencing it. We could also try making some sauces, like mango sauce.

Yes, Erin, you'd be fantastic at sushi making, even sans dong.

I found out an interesting thing about sake, but I have to run to a meeting right now.

 
At 5:50 PM, Blogger george said...

Yes, kc and I share in a sushi fetish now, and let me just say that it really adds to the enjoyment when you make it yourself.

I only need to make one correction: kc, you were the genius during the last time we were at Wa, asking whether it would be hard to make our own sushi. That's where it started.

And I thought I was doing pretty well rolling the sushi, then kc got all advanced on me with the last one, the salmon skin roll, and did it with the rice facing out.

Screw Japanese tradition: you have the makings of a sushi master.

 
At 6:00 PM, Blogger george said...

And Orient is politically correct, at least with Asians I know, as long as you're not referring to people.

 
At 6:29 PM, Blogger Matthew said...

I have recently discovered a sushi gem in my local food scene: Hikari Japanese Restaurant. The place is always empty (Binghamtonians aren't known for being adventurous eaters). This allows time for loads of questions.

I love, loove, luff Hikari's vegetarian sushi.

Here are some of the vege sushi items I have tried there:

Avocado:
Hopefully everyone is familiar with the avocado

Shitake:
Mushrooms, scrumptious, salty, savory, could make a meat eater forget about flesh

Oshinko:
Radish, simple, but wonderful

Kanpyo:
Squash, full almost savory flavor

Umi-Shiso: Some kind of veggie paste

Yama Gobi:
A carrot like root, sweet, but earthier than carrots

Vege-Tempura:
At Hikari this consists of a sweet potato fried tempura-style, it is AMAZING

Of course I adore avocado sushi and shitake sushi as well!

One of the best parts about Hikari is the people who work there. There is a very cute local boy who works as the host-cashier-waiter. Amie and I had an on-going inside joke that we were going to get him liquored up on saki one night and take him home with us. The sushi chef is a very nice man who speaks difficultly in English but he is very precise and when he can't find the right word to say he asks the boy who works out front to translate for him.

The other great thing about the sushi bar is how visually beautiful and simple everything is. From the open sign to the fish display everything is labeled clearly and presented simply. It makes you feel like you are eating fresh, wholesome, wonderful food.

The fish are all so beautiful and I have to admit that the octopus legs are so tempting. If it weren't for the fact that I genuinely dislike the taste of seafood I would try everything on the menu. (Go ahead and think me a simpleton.)

 
At 6:39 PM, Blogger Matthew said...

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At 6:40 PM, Blogger Matthew said...

This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

 
At 6:41 PM, Blogger Matthew said...

KC, remember how you avoided Wa for years because "the name is too pretentious."

It is actually a very clever name. "Wa" in Japanese is a word that is used to denote the subject of a sentence. It doesn't have an equivalent in English, but it is somewhat like the words "the" and "an". Genius. They have identified the type of sentence (sushi) you identify the subject (tuna, avocado, eel, etc).

I am glad you finally went in and I am very jealous of your beautifully rolled maki.

 
At 6:59 PM, Blogger kc said...

I confess. I avoided Wa. I didn't like the name. But that was before I encountered George and his grand passion for sushi.

Now I love Wa.

And Benjie's new quartet is named Wu.

 
At 7:05 PM, Blogger kc said...

Also, Erin, the thing I was going to say about sake is that this book says it should be served cold or at room temperature. Erin and I drank some sake Friday and were somewhat disappointed that it was served in traditional Western wine glasses instead of in the tiny porcelain cups. Apparently the tradition of warm sake dates from the post-World War II era, when sake was of an inferior quality, and it was heated to disguise its shortcomings. Only heated sake is served in the tiny cups, apparently.

 
At 7:11 PM, Blogger kc said...

Also, Erin, I found out that there are several grades of sake — something our waiter could not explain — and that might explain the different choices on the menu. Here's an explanation

 
At 7:51 PM, Blogger george said...

You know, kc, I really liked sushi but it wasn't a grand passion for me until you came along. It's like that cognac: it's something that should be shared.

 
At 8:48 PM, Blogger Erin said...

Interesting. Don't you think the Wa waitors ought to know a thing or two about the hooch? I would like to use the tiny cups, though. Why can't they put the good, cold stuff in the tiny cups?

 
At 1:01 AM, Blogger kc said...

Excellent question about the tiny cups. Any insight, George? I'll have to research that, as I also am a huge fan of the tiny cup.

 
At 2:04 AM, Blogger george said...

Well, in general the little ceramic cups are for warm sake, and for cold or room temperature sake you use these. Though I read somewhere that it's not really a rule. A glass is supposedly acceptable.

 
At 12:18 PM, Blogger cl said...

Wow! Or Wa! Those are Wa-worthy photos. That's quite an ambitious undertaking, and your results look delicious.

 
At 1:10 PM, Blogger Erin said...

You drink out of the little wooden boxes, George? Well, that's something. More interesting than a wine glass.

 
At 5:48 PM, Blogger amy rush said...

You. Me. Karen. Sushi and Sake Christmas 2006!

 
At 1:01 AM, Blogger kc said...

Amy, are you coming to Kansas?! I will definitely treat you to Wa, or we can roll our own.

 
At 11:11 PM, Blogger amy rush said...

Oh yeah, Christmas in Kansas. Many days will be spent in Lawrence 'cause it beats Wichita. And nothing says Christmas...in Kansas...than sushi.

 
At 12:55 PM, Blogger kc said...

Awesome.

 

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