NEW ENGLAND
I just spent five days in New England with my best friend. We drove a lot and walked a lot and ate a lot and saw a lot.
We drove north from Boston to Bar Harbor, Maine, then south again through Portland all the way to the tip of Cape Cod and back up to Boston. We walked every day until our legs hurt. We ate seafood until we couldn't stand it (and now I am craving clams).
We planned a few cool things, like the Brownstone college club we lodged in a block from Boston's magnificent Public Garden, and just stumbled upon many others, like the zany "Women's Week" in Provincetown, Cape Cod (above).
We made a few mistakes, like getting sucked into the tourist hell of Salem and Plymouth, but we also lucked out in getting the last room at the best inn on Cape Cod and in discovering that the National Seashore was a million times more beautiful than our guidebook had suggested.
I haven't really digested the trip yet. I've been too stuck on negative feelings about going back to work! But here are a few pictures from our adventure. And I'd really love to hear about other people's experiences in New England. We only really saw Maine and Massachusetts. Vermont, New Hampshire, Connecticut and Rhode Island will have to wait for another autumn.
This is a decaying pier on the shore of Provincetown, Mass., where the Pilgrims first landed.
This is Marconi Beach on the National Seashore in Cape Cod, a federally protected area that is off limits to development.
The next three photos are also from the National Seashore. Cape Cod took my breath away. We walked for more than an hour on this stretch of beach, watching surfers and dogs and shifting dunes.
This is the Boston Public Library, the first public collection in the U.S. It was amazing: carved wood and marble and murals by John Singer Sargent. In this courtyard, Erin saw some dude reading a book and eating dog food by the handful. Boston has a very literate homeless population.
Here is an afternoon snack we had at the Harvest restaurant near Harvard Square in Cambridge. Our guidebook said it was a favorite of Harvard professors, and, sure enough, we were seated next to two codgers with elbow patches who were saying decidedly high-brow things about the genocide in Darfur and Paris in the 1940s.
This is Acadia National Park. Now I know what Anne Sexton meant when she wrote in "The Lost Ingredient" about "some slight need for Maine's coast." We played on the granite outcroppings like little kids.
This is the view from our hotel room in Cape Elizabeth, Maine, just south of Portland, a very lively, old city made of brick and stone. We got up at the crack of dawn to take a walk on the beach ... and got lost on the way back to the hotel.
25 Comments:
A good recap. What a fabulous trip. Let's go again immediately!
Those pictures are beautiful. New England looks amazing.
Oh, and Erin has more and better pictures here.
Ignore goofy me and check out, especially, her thorough documentation of our good eats.
Excellent stuff! Makes me miss the time I was there and regret not making it to P-town.
Yeah, George, you would've loved Women's Week.
I would add that, without the tourist hell of Plymouth, there would have been no Lobster Hut. And that would've been a damn shame.
God, those Lobster Hut clam strips are making me drool.
Yeah, kc told me. I think every week should be Women's Week.
Beautiful pics! (I kept looking at the one of the food, though.)
I spend the summer of '96 in Maine as a camp counselor at a ritzy place in Kents Hill, Maine. We were in a beautiful, woodsy setting by a lake where a "heat wave" would be about 86 degrees. I didn't enjoy it as much as I thought because 1) I worked for a nutcase 2) the nutcase thought Kansans were dumb. And yet they recruited counselors at K-State ... oh well ...
I only left camp on my two personal days and one day trip with campers. My favorite place was the camper trip to Old Orchard Beach, Maine. It's this great little coastal town with a small amusement park. From the ferris wheel you look right over the Atlantic, and it was gorgeous. I always remember being at the top of that ferris wheel and wanting to savor the moment forever, and perhaps sensing my desire for peace and quiet, a 14-year-old started yammering about something or other. And I promised myself I would come back to Old Orchard Beach and ride the Ferris wheel without a camper in tow. But it's been 10 years, and I haven't gone back.
Every fictional pursuit I've written has been set in Old Orchard Beach. I remember it that well.
On one of the personal days, I got as far as Boston. The snag was that one of the counselors with me needed to buy a new car. I can't think why, now. So we were given a hot pink Geo Metro from Enterprise, and I drove car-buyer, another counselor and my pal Kristi three hours into Massachusetts. Sadly, the first place we stopped to eat was McDonald's -- we'd been eating camp food for weeks by then. A McLobster sandwich was among the offerings. I think we stuck with burgers.
Not surprisingly, Jen got held up buying her damn car for about six hours, so we spent this day in a small Boston suburb and killed about two hours at a JCPenneys. But we did drive around some of the time and admired how gorgeous everything was. I wish we'd been enterprising enough to make better use of the time, but the dealership kept promising everything would be complete "in just thirty more minutes."
On my best day off, Kristi and I drove another Enterprise rental to Portland and goofed around all day and evening. I thought it was the most beautiful city in the world and started to waver on teaching ... I'd have to go back to Kansas to student-teach that fall to graduate, but maybe afterward I'd want to apply for copy editing jobs in the Northeast. Of course, that's not what I ended up doing.
I think I wanted to go to Bangor to see where Stephen King lived. Not very highbrow, I know.
Sadly, the camp director kind of ruined my summer, and my boyfriend dumped me long-distance, and I was pretty unhappy a lot of the time I was out there. I didn't make a lot of friends. It would be great to go out there again without some of the garbage going on and just enjoy it.
Sorry. That was pretty long!
cl, was it just the camp lady who thought Kansans were dumb? I meant to ask you about the people. I was pleasantly surprised by how nice everyone we encountered was, especially in Boston, where I really expected people to be rude and exasperated by tourists. They were just the opposite. On several occasions we didn't even have to ask the locals anything; they perceived that we were baffled and offered assistance on their own. It was very refreshing. I had the impression there was a big push to instill civility. One lady who helped us find a building informed us that all off-duty cab drivers were basically instructed to help tourists with directions, etc., and that we could rely on them.
The camp director was having a meltdown blamed on menopause ... and I was doing the parent newsletter, which is why I had so much contact with her.
Her husband, the co-director, had similar problem with the ropes instructor, who also was from Kansas.
I think their attitude was a little contagious, and a lot of the counselors were former campers, aka, people whose parents would spend $15K to send them off for the summer. So there was some of that element of not being a longtimer there.
Probably, though, had I been like most of the several dozen counselors, I'd have had little contact with the "management" and had a better experience.
Also, cl, I've been in the situation you describe more than once: where you're in a cool place but circumstances (lovesickness, being alone, being poopy, etc.) conspire against truly enjoying it, then you have a bunch of regrets later — like the bozo who dumped you by phone was probably not worth losing any sleep over, let alone distracting you from Maine's awesome offerings. (?) Ah, youth.
I thought about seeing the Stepehn King house in Bangor! That would rule. Also, I learned that it's pronounced Bang-ore, not Banger, as I thought.
We drove past Old Orchard Beach, but didn't stop. Your description is giving me regrets!
Sorry ... not trying to hijack your cool thread! Tell us more about what you ATE.
KC, you should do a whole post just on the food.
Erin, perhaps I will. You'll have to help.
cl, in the meantime, check out Erin's pics. She did a much better job than I; plus, she captured most of our meals!
Happy to help. We'll have to supply written description of those items we managed to consume before remembering to snap a photo.
I looked earlier ... love her photos, especially the "sandman."
Hehe. We had no sandcastle gear, so I had to improvise.
cl, can you guess how big that sandman is?
Crikey. Maybe three feet. I bet you're going to say that it's 25 feet or maybe Erin drew it with her pinkie.
It is a wee baby sandman, like maybe a foot or so long, with rock eyes and a twig mouth.
You're right, it is hard to gauge the sandman's size from that picture. KC, don't you have a picture of me sculpting it?
Yes, I think I do. I'll post it when I get home.
OK, to see the sandman in its elfin glory, click here.
Glad you had a good time.
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